Rabbits were once thought to be short-lived pets with a lifespan of only 2-5 years. However, this was largely due to improper care. As rabbits began living indoors, receiving ample space for exercise, eating better diets, and getting veterinary attention, their life expectancy has doubled. See “5 Factors That Affect a Rabbits Life Expectancy” below.

Today, with the proper care, dwarf rabbits typically live 8-12 years while larger breeds have a slightly shorter life expectancy of 6–8 years; making them a long-term commitment similar to a dog or cat.

Before getting a rabbit, ask yourself if you are prepared for a decade long commitment. Consider how your lifestyle may change over the next 10 years; such as college, moving, change in career or relationship status, or starting a family.

Initial Costs $200-300 Setting up for a new rabbit usually costs between $200 and $300. A suitable enclosure costs around $45 to $100; and essentials like a carrier, litter box, water bowl, hidey house, tunnel, toys and enrichment add another $75. Perishable supplies like litter, hay, and food, will cost roughly $50 and need to be replaced every few weeks.

Spay / Neuter Costs $400-600 Unless adopted from a reputable rescue or shelter, most rabbits are not spayed or neutered. Breeders and pet stores often sell rabbits as young as 8 weeks old, when they are sweet and docile. However in 4 to 6 months, hormonal changes can significantly impact their behavior, leading to territorial aggression, loss of litter box habits, and mating behaviors such as honking, mounting, and spraying urine. Many owners are shocked to learn that getting a rabbit fixed can cost as much as (if not more than) a dog.

*In South Florida, the average cost ranges from $400 to $600, although some clinics, humane societies and shelters may offer low-cost services for around $150 to $250.

Monthly Costs $80-200 The ongoing monthly cost of replacing perishable supplies like litter, hay, food pellets, fresh leafy greens & veggies, treats, and toys is around $80 to $200. This varies depending on the size of the rabbit, whether you opt for conventional or organic produce, and the types of litter, food, and hay used.

Annual Costs $1,200-2,000 Rabbits need a yearly check-up and blood work with a rabbit-savvy exotic veterinarian, which typically costs between $150 and $300 in South Florida. Including these check-ups and the monthly expenses, the annual cost of owning a rabbit usually falls between $1,200 and $2,000.

*Rabbits are delicate creatures, and medical emergencies are common. Emergency veterinary care can cost $500 to $1,500.

Lifetime Cost $16,000-30,000

1 | Indoor/Outdoor Housing – Rabbits that are kept indoors and receive proper care can live 8–12 years (dwarf breeds) or 6–8 years (larger breeds). Outdoor rabbits face multiple risks such as: RHDV II, parasites, predators, and unsuitable temperatures, reducing their lifespan to just 1–2 years. Predators attacks happen much more quickly than humans can react, making outdoor playtime dangerous even with supervision. Long-haired and lop-eared rabbits begin to overheat at temperatures as low as 76°F.

2 | Enclosure, Exercise & Enrichment – Rabbits need lots of space to stay healthy. A minimum 16 – 24sq ft enclosure is recommended. Small cages can lead to big problems like: obesity, heart disease, muscle atrophy, dental problems, and infections. Providing ample space, exercise, and mental stimulation is essential for a rabbit’s well-being.

3 | Diet – Rabbits need UNLIMITED access to fresh, high-quality grass hay and water at all times. They should also get a serving of fortified pellets, leafy greens and vegetables each day. Hay promotes healthy digestion in rabbits. Lowering the risk of developing GI stasis and dental disease, as it helps to wears down their teeth, which grow continuously (3–4 inches per year) throughout their lives.

4 | Veterinary Care – Regular vet visits are crucial due to rabbits’ fragile nature and tendency to hide illnesses. Annual check-up and blood-work by an experienced exotic vet help catch problems early. Veterinary intervention is crucial if a rabbit stops eating or shows any other signs of illness, as they can deteriorate quickly, sometimes passing away within just 24 hours. Healthy rabbits should be taken to see an exotic vet once a year; at 6 years old rabbits are considered seniors and should be taken to the vet twice a year.

 5 | Breed – Certain breeds are prone to specific conditions. For example, Netherland Dwarfs, Lionheads, and Lops often develop dental disease and frequent respiratory infections due to the shape of their skull. Lops are also at high risk for recurring ear infections. Spotted rabbits may develop megacolon and Rex rabbits are prone to sore hocks. Understanding the risks of each breed is key to providing appropriate care.

1 | Space Requirements: Rabbits need at-least one room in the home where they can safely free roam. This room will need to be fully bunny proofed (see below). When you cannot supervise your rabbit they will need an enclosure that is a minimum 4ft x 4ft, 16sq ft living space and 30-36in tall.

2 | Crepuscular Nature: Do you like sleeping in? Rabbits may not be an ideal roommate then as they’ll be up and about as early as 6am. This is because rabbits, like cats, are crepuscular. Meaning the are most active around sunrise and sunset and sleep through the middle of the day and night.  This also means they need to be fed and interacted with during these times and they will not be interested in interacting from around 1oam-4pm which is their peak sleep time.

3 | Daily Time Commitment: Do you have 4 hours per day to spend with your rabbit? This includes feeding them, cleaning their area, socializing with them, and supervised exercise and free roam time. Rabbits thrive on routine, so feeding and interacting with them at the exact same times each day is recommended.

4 | Long-term Commitment: Rabbits can live 10 years or more and as they get older will need even more time and care. Consider long-term plans, such as school, career changes, moving, family planning, or changes in living situations, to ensure you can provide a stable home for the duration of your rabbit’s life.

5 | Work and School Schedules: If you are away from home most of the day for school or work and then have extracurricular activities or hobbies in the evening, bonding with your rabbit can be challenging. Lack of consistent interaction can cause rabbits to become depressed, fearful and antisocial.

6 | Housing Situations: Do you rent or own? Moving can be complicated as not all landlords allow pets and college dorms typically do not. Not disclosing a rabbit can result in hefty fines should landlords find out. (And they often do as this is common reason amongst surrender requests.) Ensure that you are prepared to prioritize your rabbit’s needs when choosing housing.

7 | Travel Frequency: Rabbits cannot be left alone for more than 24 hours. Finding a pet sitter that you can trust or a boarding facility that is experienced with rabbits is a challenge. Facilities that board dogs are not suitable as the constant barking can be stressful for rabbits and cause them to stop eating. Boarding with a vet or rescue can cost $35-45 per day.

8 | Family Planning: Pregnancy, newborn care, and the evolving interests of children can significantly impact the time and attention you can devote to a pet. If you are planning to start or expand your family in the future, consider if you will still be able to dedicate 4 hours per day to a rabbit. Talk to your partner to determine if they are willing to help out with or take over some of the rabbit’s care if needed.

9 | Children’s Involvement: While children may initially show interest in a rabbit, this enthusiasm usually wanes after a couple of weeks. Rabbits often become neglected and forgotten as children grow and become more involved with friends and other activities. Rabbits are also very delicate and not suitable for young children. Children under 12 years old need to be supervised at all times when in the room with the rabbit.

10 | Allergies and Health: Allergies are another common reason that many rescues receive urgent surrender requests. Ensure that no one in the home is allergic to rabbits or hay by taking an allergy test before getting a rabbit.

Bunny proofing protects both your bunny and your belongings:

1 | Electrical Cables & Wires: Rabbits are notorious for chewing on ‘spicy hay’ a.k.a. dangerous electrical cables. Protect your rabbit from electrocution and yourself from having to explain what happened to the Ethernet cable by hiding electrical cables and wires behind furniture or covering them with heavy duty cord protectors. Check out the “Small Pet Select Heavy Duty Cord Cover“. Other common victims are phone chargers, headphone cables, laptop cables, shoe laces, drawstrings of hoodies and sweatpants.

2 | Furniture and Baseboards: Wooden items such as furniture legs and baseboards are another common targets for a rabbit’s chewing. Protect these by blocking access with grids, pens or other protective barriers. As a natural deterrent, you can also wipe down these surfaces with diluted white vinegar before letting your rabbit out to free roam.

3 | Rubber and Plastic Items: Unlike wood, which is usually harmless, rubber and plastic can cause deadly intestinal obstructions if ingested. Ensure all such materials are removed from areas your rabbit will have access to or securely blocked off. Consider TV remotes, wheels of strollers, office chairs or carts, exercise weights, children’s toys and plastic baby toys. Plastic stacking cups and other baby toys can be used for supervised play time but should NOT be left in the rabbits enclosure all of the time.

4 | House Plants: Many common houseplants are toxic to rabbits and no, unfortunately, rabbits do not have the innate sense to not eat something that can make them sick. Here are a few to watch out for: poinsettias, lilies (including Easter lilies), onion, rhubarb, hydrageas, chrysanthemums, iris, ivy, daffodil, poppy, rhododendrons, both tomato and potato plants, yew, and cannabis. But even non-toxic plants can upset a rabbits digestive systems, leading to serious health issues like GI stasis. Be sure to remove or block access to any houseplants. Fake houseplants can also be dangerous if rabbits ingest the synthetic material.

5 | Temperature Control: Rabbits are extremely sensitive to temperature changes. Maintain ambient temperatures between 64-74°F to keep your rabbit comfortable. Be especially cautious with long-haired and lop-eared breeds, which can start to overheat at 76°F.

6 | Protect Your Soft Furnishings: Use waterproof blankets on your beds and couches to guard against any accidents that might occur as your rabbit settles in. Avoid pee pads as these end up getting chewed and ingested.

7 | Block Small Spaces: Rabbits love to squeeze into small spaces and can burrow into the undersides of couches and beds. Use C&C grids to block off these areas.

8 | Avoid Respiratory Irritants: Because rabbits have a very sensitive respiratory system, avoid smoking, vaping, and burning incense. Scented plug-ins and air freshener sprays should be avoided as they are toxic and can cause respiratory and neurological problems, and even death.

DAILY ROUTINE

Feeding:

• Morning (around 7-8 AM): Provide a fresh serving of high quality hay and a portion of rabbit pellets.
• Evening (around 6-7 PM): Repeat the morning feeding routine and include a serving of fresh leafy greens and vegetables.

Litter box and Area Maintenance:

• Dedicate 15 minutes to tidying up the rabbit’s area each morning and evening. This includes picking up loose hay, litter, and stray poops, ensuring the space remains clean and comfortable.
• Remove all soiled hay from the litter box twice a day. Add fresh hay directly into the litter box to encourage natural foraging and bathroom behaviors. Dump out the entire litter box every 2nd or 3rd day so that you can monitor how many poops the rabbit had in 24hrs and what they look like. This can help you catch and address illnesses early.

Socializing:

• Spend quality time interacting with your rabbit during or after feeding times when they are most active. Aim for at least 15-45 minutes of dedicated socialization per session to build trust and familiarity.

WEEKLY ROUTINE

Deep Cleaning:

• Perform a thorough cleaning of the entire rabbit’s area once a week. This includes moving their pen and items to vacuuming their area rug. Washing any blankets or snuffle mats. Soaking their litter box with distilled white vinegar to remove residue. Checking their items and toys for wear to see if they need to be replaced. Wash food and water bowls with warm water and soap or pass through the dishwater.
• Once a month you move their area rug to sweep, vacuum and mop underneath.

Health Check:

• Conduct a basic health check to monitor your rabbit’s condition, including checking their eyes, ears, teeth, fur, nails, and weight. This regular monitoring helps catch any potential health issues early.

PRO TIP: Get a pet or baby scale and weight your rabbit each week. Keep a detailed log and talk to your veterinarian about any weight gain or loss.

Rabbits need at-least 1 room that they can safely free-roam in. This room should be a central, high-traffic area in the home such as an (adults) bedroom or living-room. Just like cats and dogs, rabbits need lots of space to run and exercise and they do best when included in their family’s day to day activities as much as possible.

When they need to be contained, a single dwarf rabbit needs a minimum 4ft x 4ft, 16sq ft living space. A 4ft x 6ft, 24sq ft living space (pictured below) is preferred.

This will be their “home-base” for when you cannot supervise them. Rabbits will need to be let out of this enclosure for at least 3-4hrs a couple of times per day to free roam and exercise. For each additional rabbit (or 4lb of body weight), add 8-12sq ft to their living space to maintain a healthy and harmonious environment and prevent fighting and bulling due to resource guarding amongst multiple rabbits. Giant breeds will need an entire room to free roam all of the time.

4ft x 4ft, 16sq ft 1 dwarf sized rabbit (2-4lb)

4ft x 6ft, 24sq ft 1 medium sized rabbit (5-9lb) or a pair of dwarfs

6ft x 6ft, 36sq ft 1 large breed rabbit (10-14lb) or a pair of medium sized rabbits or a trio of dwarfs

FREE ROAM giant breed rabbits (15lb+)

Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV) is a calcivirus that specially affects rabbits. It is highly contagious and can be transmitted amongst both wild and domestic rabbits. The virus is transmitted through the urine, feces, and respiratory secretions of rabbits that are infected, or those that survive for up to 2 months. It can also be brought inside the home on dirt, leaves, flowers, or insects that have come in contact with an infected rabbit’s fur, feces or urine.

There is no cure and if contracted the fatality rate is as high as 70-90%. Death occurs within just 3-5 days of contracting the virus.

The virus traveled from Europe to the United States in 2020 and it is considered an epidemic. All states now offers annual vaccines for RHDV. Vaccinating your rabbit, keeping them strictly indoors and taking your shoes off by the door are important ways to keep your rabbit safe from this deadly disease.

YES!

As prey animals rabbits instinctively hide signs of illness and do so very well. They should get a wellness exam, with blood work, every year with an experienced exotic veterinarian even if they “seem healthy.” This way illnesses can be caught and treated in the early stage. By the time symptoms become obvious it may be too late or much more difficult to treat; requiring more advanced and costly treatments. You should never ignore symptoms or try to treat rabbits at home yourself. “Home remedies” are no substitute for veterinary care and are often dangerous.

When rabbits are six years old they are considered senior pets and should visit an exotic vet twice a year. X-rays to determine if arthritis is present and lifelong pain management may be advised.

A physical exam with an experienced exotic veterinarian may cost $75-$105 in Florida. During a typical physical exam the veterinarian will document the weight and vital signs (temperature, heart and respiratory rates), listen to the heart and lungs, use a scope to look at the eyes and nose and inside the mouth and ears, etc. It is important that the veterinarian is experienced with properly handling exotic animals like rabbits because they have  fragile spines and are difficult to keep calm and safely restrain. Improper handling can lead to stress and spinal injuries.

Because rabbits hide signs of illness, blood work should be performed every year to check the functioning of internal organs, this can be an additional $150-$300. In the case of a suspected injury or illness, veterinarians may need to perform diagnostic x-rays which can cost $250-$450. If surgery is needed, depending on the length and complexity it may range from $900 – $1600 or more.

The average cost of a spay/neuter surgery in Florida is $400-$600.

It is recommended to have a medical savings account of $1000 per rabbit for emergencies.

Another option is to GET PET INSURANCE WITH NATIONWIDE or APPLY FOR CARE CREDIT to get 6 months interest free financing for unexpected costs.