ADOPT A RESCUE RABBIT


At Southeast FL Rabbit Rescue, we believe that every rabbit and guinea pig deserves a loving forever home. Our rescue is 100% volunteer-run and operates entirely through donations and the kindness of our foster families. When you choose to adopt a rescue rabbit or guinea pig from us, you’re not only saving one precious life but also creating an opportunity for us to rescue another animal in need. Your support is invaluable, and we want to say THANK YOU!

All of our rabbits are spay / neutered, microchip-ed and receive annual wellness exams from experienced exotic veterinarians to ensure that they are healthy. They are housed in loving foster homes where they receive daily socialization and rabbits are litter-box trained.

I AM A

FOREVER

RABBIT

NOT A

  • until you have to move
  • until you have a baby
  • until your kids get bored
  • until you have no time
  • until I get too old

RABBIT

Our adoption process is designed to ensure that every home is set up for furever success and is well-prepared for their new pet. The approval timeline can vary depending on how quickly applicants complete the steps below.

Typically, it takes 1-2 weeks from the start of the process until you can welcome your new rabbit(s) into your home.

STEP 1 | APPLICATION
  • Submit Adoption Application.
  • Attend an Adoption Orientation / Bunny 101 class via Zoom (1 hour).
  • Complete the Post Bunny 101 Questionnaire.
STEP 2 | PREPARATION
  • Schedule an in-person Meet & Greet.
  • Order Required Supplies.
  • Set-up an Enclosure for your new friend(s) and send us a pic.
  • Bunny Proof the room where new friend(s) will get to free-roam.
STEP 3 | ADOPTION
  • Schedule a Home Visit / Drop off.
  • Complete a minimum 4 week Foster to Adopt trial.
  • Pay the Adoption Fee: single rabbit: $150   |   bonded pair: $250.
TO APPLY:
  • Must be over 18 years of age and provide a driver license or state ID card.
  • If under 21 and/or still living at home: a parent or guardian will need to participate in the adoption process.
  • Everyone in the household (spouses, parents, roommates, etc.) will need to agree to and participate in the adoption process.
  • INDOORS ONLY: Domestic rabbits should be housed and kept indoors at all times. Taking rabbits outdoors is not only stressful for them but exposes them to many dangers, such as: RHDV II, predators, parasites (fleas, ticks, mites, lice, fly strike, bot flies, etc.) and heatstroke (rabbits begin to show signs of overheating at just 76°F / 24°C).
    • NO: patios, porches, backyards, or walks/outdoor playtime.

 

  • CENTRAL: The rabbits enclosure should be in an adults bedroom or a central, high-traffic area like the living room.
    • NO: laundry room, kitchen, bathroom, garages, patios, etc.

 

  • FREE ROAM TIME: The rabbit cannot stay in the enclosure all of the time and will need 3-4 hours of daily supervised free-roam time to explore and exercise in a “bunny-proofed” room.
MINIMUM RABBITAT SIZE:

4ft x 4ft, 16sq ft 1 dwarf sized rabbit (2-4lb)

4ft x 6ft, 24sq ft 1 medium sized rabbit (5-9lb) or a pair of dwarfs

6ft x 6ft, 36sq ft 1 large breed rabbit (10-14lb) or a pair of medium sized rabbits or a trio of dwarfs

FREE ROAM giant breed rabbits (15lb+)

A single dwarf rabbit needs a minimum 4ft x 4ft, 16sq ft living space when enclosed, preferably 4ft x 6ft.

This will be their “home-base” for when you cannot supervise them. For each additional rabbit (or 4lb of body weight), add 8-12sq ft to their living space to maintain a healthy and harmonious environment and prevent fighting and bulling due to resource guarding amongst multiple rabbits. Giant breeds will need an entire room to free roam all of the time.

Cages and hutches DO NOT provide enough room for exercise and overall well-being for rabbits. Not providing enough space can lead to a host of problems due to depression and frustration. These often lead to rabbits pacing back and forth, cage chewing (which can damage their teeth), and cage aggression (growling, lunging and biting at hands that reach into their space or during cleaning). Health issues such as obesity, heart disease, muscle atrophy, skeletal changes, and infections are more common. Cages and hutches are also notoriously difficult to keep clean as rabbits end up using the entire space as a litter box.

1 | Habitat

minimum: 30-36in tall, 4ft x 4ft (16sq ft); preferred: 4ft x 6ft (24sq ft)

  • Area Rug | minimum: 5ft x 7ft
  • Litter box and Litter | minimum: 14in x 18in
  • Ceramic Water Bowl | 3-5 cup capacity
  • Hidey House
2 | Diet
  • Hay | Alfalfa for Juveniles or Timothy for Adults | min. 90oz
  • Pellets | Oxbow Adult or Young Adult Food
  • Greens | Spring Mix
  • Treats
3 | Toys, Enrichment & Grooming
  • Grooming Supplies | nail clippers and brush or comb
  • Enrichment | Chew toys, snuffle mats, tunnels, puzzle toys, etc.
4 | Carrier

single rabbit (2-4lb): 12in W x 18in L  |  single rabbit (5-10lb) or pair: 15in W x 23in L

Bunny proofing protects both your bunny and your belongings:

1. Electrical Cables & Wires: Rabbits are notorious for chewing on ‘spicy hay’ a.k.a. dangerous electrical cables. Protect your rabbit from electrocution and yourself from having to explain what happened to the Ethernet cable by hiding electrical cables and wires behind furniture or covering them with heavy duty cord protectors. Other common victims are phone chargers, headphone cables, laptop cables, shoe laces, drawstrings of hoodies and sweatpants.

2. Furniture and Baseboards: Wooden items such as furniture legs and baseboards are another common targets for a rabbit’s chewing. Protect these by blocking access with grids, pens or other protective barriers. As a natural deterrent, you can also wipe down these surfaces with diluted white vinegar before letting your rabbit out to free roam.

3. Rubber and Plastic Items: Unlike wood, which is usually harmless, rubber and plastic can cause deadly intestinal obstructions if ingested. Ensure all such materials are removed from areas your rabbit will have access to or securely blocked off. Consider TV remotes, wheels of strollers, office chairs or carts, exercise weights, children’s toys and plastic baby toys. Plastic stacking cups and other baby toys can be used for supervised play time but should NOT be left in the rabbits enclosure all of the time.

4. House Plants: Many common houseplants are toxic to rabbits and no, unfortunately, rabbits do not have the innate sense to not eat something that can make them sick. Here are a few to watch out for: poinsettias, lilies (including Easter lilies), onion, rhubarb, hydrageas, chrysanthemums, iris, ivy, daffodil, poppy, rhododendrons, both tomato and potato plants, yew, and cannabis. But even non-toxic plants can upset a rabbits digestive systems, leading to serious health issues like GI stasis. Be sure to remove or block access to any houseplants. Fake houseplants can also be dangerous if rabbits ingest the synthetic material.

5. Temperature Control: Rabbits are extremely sensitive to temperature changes. Maintain ambient temperatures between 64-74°F to keep your rabbit comfortable. Be especially cautious with long-haired and lop-eared breeds, which can start to overheat at 76°F.

6. Protect Your Soft Furnishings: Use waterproof blankets on your beds and couches to guard against any accidents that might occur as your rabbit settles in. Avoid pee pads as these end up getting chewed and ingested.

7. Block Small Spaces: Rabbits love to squeeze into small spaces and can burrow into the undersides of couches and beds. Use C&C grids to block off these areas.

8. Avoid Respiratory Irritants: Because rabbits have a very sensitive respiratory system, avoid smoking, vaping, and burning incense. Scented plug-ins and air freshener sprays should be avoided as they are toxic and can cause respiratory and neurological problems, and even death.

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE ADOPTING A RABBIT

Before getting a rabbit, think about how they will fit into your current lifestyle. Below are some important things to consider:

How Long Do Rabbits Live?

Rabbits can live 10 years or more, making them a long-term commitment similar to a dog or cat.

Are you prepared for a decade long commitment to an expensive, exotic pet that requires as much care and supervision as a toddler? Consider if your lifestyle may change significantly over the next few years, such as college, moving, or starting a family.

 

  • Are you prepared to commit to a pet that may live 10 years or more?

 

  • How do you foresee your lifestyle changing in the next decade?

 

  • What will you do to ensure that your rabbit will remain a priority, even during life transitions?

How Much Do Rabbits Cost Per Year?

  • Do you have $80-200 of disposable income per month to spend on your rabbits supplies?

 

  • If your rabbit becomes sick are you willing to pay $500-$1,000 to take them to the vet today?

 

Monthly Costs $80-200 The ongoing monthly cost of litter, hay, food, treats, toys, and fresh produce, is around $80 to $200. The amount will depend on the size of the rabbit, whether you choose conventional or organic produce, and the type of litter, food and hay.

Annual Costs $1,200-2,000 Rabbits need to have an annual wellness exam and blood-work with an exotic veterinarian every year which costs around $150-300. Therefore, the total annual cost for owning a rabbit is $1,200-2,000. This includes the costs of food and supplies, as well as their check-up.

In the event of a medical emergency, which is unfortunately common as rabbits are extremely fragile, the cost of emergency veterinary care can be $500 to $1,500.

 

Lifetime Cost $16,000-30,000

Children & Family Planning

Pregnancy, newborn care, and the evolving interests of children can significantly impact the time and attention you can devote to a pet. If you are planning to start or expand your family in the future, consider if you will still be able to dedicate 3-4 hours per day to a rabbit.

There is a common misconception that rabbits are easy, low-maintenance and great “starter” pets for children. This couldn’t be further from the truth and is why so many rabbits get dumped or rehomed within their first year when families realize just how much attention and care they need. Rabbits are better suited as a family pet for responsible older teens or SINK / DINK adults. With supervision, children can help with feeding and cleaning up the rabbits space but a majority of the daily care and mental load will need to be performed by the parents. And while usually children are extremely motivated and enthusiastic about the rabbit. This usually fades after a couple of weeks (even with teens who make very compelling PowerPoint presentations about why you should get a rabbit). This is because as prey animals, rabbits are not cuddly by nature. They do not enjoy being picked up or cuddled and may bite or scratch if handled incorrectly.

 

  • Talk to your family to determine if they are willing to help out with or take over some of the rabbit’s care if you are sick or traveling or if the rabbit will solely be your responsibility.

 

  • Are you planning to have children in the future?

 

  • Are you getting a rabbit as a pet for a child or teen?

 

  • If there are children in the home – Are they gentle and calm or do they play and interact roughly? Do they generally follow directions and complete chores or do they need frequent corrections and reminders? What will happen to the rabbit if the children become bored?

Do You Have The Space?

You will need at-least 1 room that your rabbit will be able to safely free-roam in. This room should be a central or high-traffic area in the home such as an (adults) bedroom or living-room. Just life cats and dogs, rabbits need lots of space to run and exercise and they do best when included in their family’s day to day activities as much as possible. This room should be fully “Bunny Proofed” so that it is safe for (and from) them.

Your rabbit will need an home-base or enclosure for when you are not able to supervise them. This will contain their house, litter-box, food / water bowls and toys. A single dwarf rabbit needs a minimum 4ft x 4ft, 16sq ft living space when enclosed. A larger 4ft x 6ft area is preferred. For each additional rabbit (or 4lb of body weight), add 8-12sq ft to their living space to maintain a healthy and harmonious environment and prevent fighting and bulling due to resource guarding amongst multiple rabbits. Giant breeds will need an entire room to free roam all of the time.

SPACE REQUIRED BY SIZE

4ft x 4ft, 16sq ft 1 dwarf sized rabbit (2-4lb)

4ft x 6ft, 24sq ft 1 medium sized rabbit (5-9lb) or a pair of dwarfs

6ft x 6ft, 36sq ft 1 large breed rabbit (10-14lb) or a pair of medium sized rabbits or a trio of dwarfs

FREE ROAM giant breed rabbits (15lb+)

 

Cages and hutches DO NOT provide enough room for exercise and overall well-being for rabbits. Not providing enough space can lead to a host of problems due to depression and frustration. These often lead to rabbits pacing back and forth, cage chewing (which can damage their teeth), and cage aggression (growling, lunging and biting at hands that reach into their space or during cleaning). Health issues such as obesity, heart disease, muscle atrophy, skeletal changes, and infections are more common. Cages and hutches are also notoriously difficult to keep clean as rabbits end up using the entire space as a litter box.

Do You Rent or Own?

Before adopting a rabbit, consider your housing situation carefully. Moving can be challenging for rabbit owners. Some buildings and landlords have a ‘no pets’ policy, and most college dorms do not allow pets. Some buildings and landlords may allow cats and dogs but not ‘exotic’ pets like rabbits and guinea pigs. Not disclosing a rabbit to your landlord may result in hefty fines or eviction if discovered* — having to move to a place that does not allow rabbits or a landlord discovering a secret rabbit is a common reason amongst surrender requests. To avoid potential problems, make sure you’re prepared to prioritize your rabbit’s needs when selecting housing.

Additionally, rabbits can be destructive. They love to chew baseboards, doors, door frames, corners, and furniture, as well as dig or pull up carpeting. If their urine is not cleaned within 24 hours, it can stain floors and carpets. These behaviors can potentially risk your security deposit.

Responsible pet ownership means being prepared for any housing-related challenges that may arise during your pet’s lifetime.

*Adopters will need to provide written approval from their landlord before bringing a rabbit home.

How Often Do You Travel?

Rabbits should not be left alone for more than 24 hours. Finding a pet sitter that you can trust or a boarding facility that is experienced with rabbits is a challenge. Facilities that board dogs are not suitable as the constant barking can be stressful for rabbits and cause them to stop eating. Boarding with a vet or rescue can cost $35-45 per day.

Allergies

Allergies are another common reason that many rescues receive urgent surrender requests. Ensure that no one in the home is allergic to rabbits (or hay) by taking an allergy test before getting a rabbit.

 

ORDER A TEST: www.healthlabs.com/rabbit-allergy-testing

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